After a lot of planning, I hiked to the famous Trolltunga rock in Norway in August 2019. Here are details about getting to Trolltunga, the hike, and general tips.
So what is Trolltunga?
Trolltunga, or ‘Troll Tongue’, is a rock formation in western Norway that sticks out in thin air about 700m from the ground. The rock was carved out by glaciers and now sits above Lake Ringedalsvatnet in the mountains. Trolltunga is a popular hiking destination with people lining up for a once in a life time photo.
Where is Trolltunga?
Trolltunga is about 3 hours east of Bergen near the small town Odda. While the rock actually sits above a lake, the Sørfjorden is west of the trail by only a few miles.
The location of Trolltunga in reference to the trailhead, town Odda, and in the big picture.
How to Get to Trolltunga
The closest airport to Trolltunga is Flesland Airport in Bergen. From Bergen, you can either rent a car or take a bus. You will likely want to stay in a nearby town the night before you do the hike, though some do the drive in the same day; not recommended!
I did this hike in August 2019 and flew into Flesland from Edinburgh. I explored Bergen for a couple days, then rented a car from Hertz and drove to Odda.
Renting a car in Norway can be expensive, so a bus is a great alternative. Bus schedules can be found here.
If you rent a car, a few things to note are: you will need to take a car ferry if you want to take the fastest route, there are massive tunnels along the route (some that you’re in for 20 minutes), and speed limits are taken very seriously in Norway.
Taking the car ferry
Having grown up in Southern California, I was really nervous about the car ferry because I had never experienced anything like that and was in a foreign country. The good news is, it’s not a big deal and is fairy simple!
If you are driving from Bergen to Odda (or nearby), the directions will likely guide you to the Tørvikbygd to Jondal fjord crossing. You should look up the ferry schedule ahead of time to make sure you don’t miss it and to minimize waiting time. The ferry typically runs about every hour throughout day time hours.
How it works is there will be someone standing outside at the turn off and you will pay them the fee. Make sure to have cash just in case! The fees vary depending on the size of your car, but could be as low as 143 NOK (~$14 USD). See 2020 prices here. After you pay, you will line up in one of multiple lanes which are numbered. The right-most lane is Lane 1, and all cars in that line will be let on the ferry first before moving to Lane 2. These ferries do fit a lot of cars, but at some point will fill up. When it’s your turn, you just drive onto the ferry as far as you can go. Park your car, lock it, and get a snack at the cafe!
Where to Stay to Hike Trolltunga
I stayed in Odda which is about 20 minutes from the trail head. I stayed at Trolltunga Studios in one of their studio style rooms with a private bathroom and small kitchen. This is one of the cheaper options in the area, but there are many other hotels and Airbnbs. Alternatively, with Norway’s lenient camping laws you could pitch a tent and sleep under the stars; but do make sure to read the law carefully first.
If you will have a car, make sure whichever accommodation you choose has parking. If you will not have a car and are planning to take the shuttle to the trail head, you may want to stay close to one of the stops.
Parking Lots at Trolltunga
This may be the most important piece of info regarding Trolltunga.
The length and difficulty of the hike varies a lot depending on where you start – P1, P2, or P3. Parking lot 3, or P3, opened in recent years and skips about 4 miles of the hike which also happens to be the most vertical.
Approximate Hike Length:
P1 – 25 miles, 2000m ascent
P2 – 17 miles, 1200m ascent
P3 – 12 miles, 800m ascent
If you have your own car and would like to park at P3, you must pre-book in advance because space is limited. Parking at P3 costs about $60 (USD) and your car must meet height requirements. You can book parking here. If you will not have a car or want to park at P2, there is a paid shuttle that runs between P2 and P3. The regular shuttle from Odda takes you to P2.
For all parking and shuttle info, see here.
The Hike to Trolltunga
At last, the whole point of this! From P3 the hike is a little over 12 miles and is relatively flat. The trail changes throughout the hike with rock outcroppings, waterfalls, views of the lake and snowy ridges. Throughout the hike you should follow the red Ts that are painted onto rocks.
No better way to detail a hike then photos along the way:
The beginning of the hike from P3. Pretty flat and trail is rock.
The first and steepest hill when starting from P3.
There are a few signs throughout the trail with location markers and The Troll himself.
Here is one of the red Ts indicating you are on the right track and should proceed forward. The trail is pretty straight forward except the last mile or so when approaching Trolltunga.
The gradual downhill after the first hill. Tents that belong to backpackers can be seen along the trail.
The first views of Lake Ringedalsvatnet are breath taking, and the hike continues along the lake. Multiple waterfalls can be seen on all sides of the cliffs. At this point the trail is primary dirt and grass.
This was a really neat part of the trail with small waterfalls coming down the cliffs on the left, and you hike through the stream (hard to see in the photo). The water from the falls is clean enough to drink without any treatment!
The magical sign telling you, you are almost there! At this point the trail becomes less obvious, so follow the Ts.
At last we made it!
The behind the scenes of Trolltunga. On the left is a sort of ‘mini Trolltunga’ which people take photos on. The center of the photo is the main rock- it’s wider than it looks in most photos, but is still very narrow and high and nerve-racking to go out on! In the foreground is where people take photos from, sit down to rest, and line up for their photos.
You can explore the area surrounding Trolltunga, including the cliffs above the rock which have equally good views and make a great picnic spot.
Tips and Q&A – Hiking Trolltunga
Q: Who will take my photos if I’m on the rock?
A: Some people set up tripods and have a clicker or timer. Most people ask someone else and there is a level of trust that they get a good shot! We made a friend along the trail and took turns.
Q: Is Trolltunga overrated?
A: I am going to say no. I loved everything about my experience, and thought the views and hike were really spectacular. But it is worth noting that there are many other great hikes in Norway that are less popular.
Q: Is the trail over crowded?
A: In my experience, no. The trail is long enough and wide enough that there was never a point I felt overcrowded. There are some areas that became more bottle-necked such as the uphill sections and the rock, of course.
Tip: Crowds are thinner the earlier you start and the closer you start (P2 vs P3). We started at 6:30am from P3.
Q: Is it only tourists that hike Trolltunga?
A: I met people from all over the world on this hike, including Norwegians. Chances are most Norwegians on the hike do not live in the vicinity since the towns nearest to Trolltunga are very small.
Q: How long will you wait for a photo?
A: We waited about 20 minutes at 9am on a Saturday in late August. I do believe the line can take much longer, a couple hours even, depending on the time and day.
Q: What will the weather be like?
A: Even though I did the hike in late August, it was pretty cold. The key is to wear layers in case the weather changes throughout the hike. A rain jacket is a must as rain is not uncommon. I also brought a dry cover for my bag and extra socks just in case; fortunately they were not necessary. I highly recommend gloves – resting and snacking near the rock got really cold really fast.
Q: How long will the hike take?
A: It took me almost 6 hours from start to finish with about 45 minutes at the rock.
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